We recently got back from a very relaxing family vacation on St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands, a Caribbean island filled with spectacular natural beauty. You may remember hearing that St. John was one of the islands hard hit during the devastating 2017 hurricane season. Since then, a great deal of hard work by locals and business owners has gone into bringing the island back to normal. If you aren't familiar with the island, St. John is the smallest of the 3 main islands that make up what's known as the USVI (along with St. Thomas and St. Croix), and over half of the island is protected as a part of Virgin Islands National Park. Although there are still some businesses across all 3 islands that have not reopened post-hurricane, St. John and its residents are hoping that tourism will continue to rebound, as it plays a crucial role in the island’s economy. So if you are looking for a special place to make vacation memories in the Caribbean, here are some things to know about taking a vacation on family-friendly St. John.
Getting to St. John
A passport is not required for US citizens to travel to the USVI, but makes it more efficient when returning home. Otherwise you will need documentation like a birth certificate with a raised seal in addition to a government id, but always check the official government website for the latest before you go. There are no airports on tiny St. John, so we had to fly to nearby St. Thomas, then take a short ferry ride to the island. From the east coast of the US, we were happy to find direct flights, such as the one we took from the DC area which was just over 4 hours of flying time. Upon arrival in St. Thomas, choose to rent a car at the airport or take a taxi to the ferry terminal. We knew we wanted to have a car for our daily adventures since we were going to be staying on the eastern side of St. John, so we reserved a car for pick up through Amalie Car Rental. I have to say it was the easiest rental car pick up we have ever done, as we were greeted by friendly staff at the airport both for pickup and drop off. You can also wait and rent a car in Cruz Bay upon arrival on the island via the ferry. If you prefer to leave the driving to someone else and are staying in the Cruz Bay area of St. John, or at the Westin resort, I think you would be fine using local transportation options to get around if you don't mind waiting for a ride. Just note that if you do rent a vehicle, driving is on the left side of the road. Luckily on St. John the roads are primarily two lane, but there are some serious switchbacks and hills. If you aren’t comfortable with that, it’s probably best to leave the driving to the locals. Most car rental agencies will require you to rent a 4WD vehicle like a Jeep, and now I understand why. You definitely something with the power to navigate the steep hills and bumpy roads. The other thing about driving is that you definitely need to to watch out for random goats and chickens on the road at all hours of the day and night.
Where to Stay
As I mentioned earlier, some businesses on the island are still in post-hurricane recovery mode. Since this was our first visit, I can’t really speak to how things used to be as far as the availability of accommodations and restaurants, but I know that everyone seems to have a story about the difficulties they have faced since that time. Places like the popular Westin St. John Resort & Villas just reopened in early 2019, and offers a beachfront location, resort pool, and several room styles, including villas with up to 3 bedrooms. With its proximity to the main town of Cruz Bay, it’s a popular family destination, so be sure to make a reservation well in advance. Other resorts like Caneel Bay still remain closed. There are a handful of smaller resorts and condos on the west end of the island, but I personally love all the options for rental houses which you can find clustered either near Cruz Bay or Coral Bay. For our family of five, we typically trade off resort amenities and pricey rooms for the space, privacy, and cost savings of a rental house. After reading the reviews on VRBO about Waterlemon Villa, I knew that this was the place, located on the quieter side of the island near Coral Bay. I would definitely recommend the eastern side of the island for access to a variety of beautiful beaches, along with a handful of casual restaurants and a grocery store (but no gas station in Coral Bay).
Our 3 bedroom, 3 bath villa offered a spectacular view of the harbor and the sunrise from two separate porches, along with a large pool deck, beach towels and chairs, a modern kitchen plus a gas grill. Maneuvering in and out of the steep, narrow driveway definitely required some getting used to and may not be for everyone, but by the end of the week my husband was a pro!
Things to Do
St. John is known for its stunning beaches, and they did not disappoint! Our family has been to many national parks over the years, but never one quite like Virgin Islands National Park. Visitors can stop in to the National Park Visitor Center in Cruz Bay for more information and chat with the park rangers. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to pop in because it was closed for the St. John Festival Parade the day we were in Cruz Bay. Luckily the National Park Service website has some helpful information regarding beaches and hiking across the island.
If you are looking for snorkeling, diving, hiking, kayaking, sailing, and relaxing on the beach, you'll find all that on St. John! In all honesty, this was the first trip in a long time that we really had no agenda and for once didn’t try to do every activity available on the island. The island is well-known for its snorkeling, and much of it can be done just off the beach. We traveled with some of our own gear, but there are places to rent snorkel masks and fins on both sides of the island, with Crabby’s Water Sports a popular spot in Coral Bay. The location of our rental house gave us access to several great beaches within a 10-15 minute drive, and the first one we fell in love with was Maho Bay. 
Apparently the beach area at Maho has undergone some changes since the hurricanes, but we loved that the water was calm, and there was a facility where you could rent paddle boards and snorkeling equipment, as well as an outdoor seating area and bar. We visited twice and both times, there was room to spread out, grab a bit of shade under the trees, and watch the pelicans dive for fish. Snorkeling just off shore we spotted turtles, a sting ray and several large tarpon. I wish I had some underwater photos to share but the housing on our GoPro broke upon arrival to our vacation house. Another day we visited Salt Pond Bay, another great snorkeling beach on the east end of St. John. There was a short hike downhill to get to the beach area so try not to forget anything. The area is also where you will find the popular Ram’s Head Trail. We considered taking the hike but as the day wore on, we decided we were perfectly content just hanging out on the beach and snorkeling. We also visited picture-perfect Cinnamon Bay with its wide beach area on the northern side of the island (note that the park concessions stand and beach shop have not reopened since 2017). Unfortunately the day we visited was quite windy with lots of blowing sand so we spent more time in the water and less time relaxing on the beach, but even so the tropical scenery certainly made it worthwhile. On our way to Cruz Bay for the 4th of July we stopped to check out Hawksnest Bay, another beautiful beach area that I would go back to. The one beach we did not make it to was Trunk Bay, which we had heard is very popular with day visitors to the island. It's also where you can find an underwater snorkeling trail. We did manage to snap a few photos of this iconic beach from an overlook on our way across the island.
You won’t be bored if you are looking for excursions on the island, which include guided kayaking, sailing trips—including some to the nearby British Virgin Islands which require a passport and extra fees—and various eco-tours. We opted for a half day sailing and snorkeling trip with Captain Karl and Virgin Magic Charters, where we relaxed while sailing on the Mahiya, a Tiki 30 catamaran. Loved the views of the east end of St. John from the water, and listening to stories as the sails were hoisted. Our snorkeling stop was a beautiful spot at Le Duc Cay, where we saw tons of squid along with parrot fish and a variety of coral. Back on the boat we enjoyed snacks and the customary Caribbean cocktail before our return sail.
The island also has much history to share, some of which can be learned by touring some of the ruins scattered around the island. We visited the Annaberg sugar plantation ruins, probably the best preserved ruins on the island, to learn more and view a site used for planting, harvesting and production of sugar cane. The site, just a short uphill walk from the parking lot, included the remains of the factory, the large windmill, and the slave quarters from a time when the islands were a part of the Danish West Indies. Remnants of other sugar cane plantations can be found throughout the island.
Our vacation happened to coincide with the end of the month-long St. John Festival, during which time the USVI residents commemorate Emancipation Day on July 3rd, and participate in the Festival Parade on the 4th of July. Both children and adults sing and dance their way down the parade route, wearing colorful costumes showcasing the unique culture of the island. Not quite like Mardis Gras, but a festive spirit and cheering onlookers made for a fun day! The cheerful island spirit could be found throughout the island, shining bright in shops and storefronts.
Dining in Coral Bay
At first glance, I was a bit nervous that there wouldn’t be enough food choices in Coral Bay, but was pleasantly surprised by the variety. Skinny Legs, known for their burgers, is a family-friendly casual spot which we enjoyed for both lunch and dinner. And if you feel something brush up against your feet while eating, don’t worry, it’s just one of the many feathered local friends you might find wandering around the island. At dinner at Aqua Bistro, served in an outdoor courtyard, we tried the Fish Tacos, and fresh Tuna. We also picked up sandwiches from Pickles in Paradise, a good location in Coral Bay if you are looking to grab lunch on your way to the beach. And how could we not try the Pizzabar in Paradise—with a name like that we had to stop and pick up a pizza for an afternoon snack, and also learn about their story of recovery after the hurricane. We ended our vacation with the half-price happy hour at Rhumb Lines, and went crazy ordering every small-bite on the menu! The food is described as Pacific Rim and Tropical cuisine, with items like Spicy Vegetable Samosas, Filipino Pork Lumpia, and all kinds of “killer shrimp.” My only regret is that we didn’t make it to Miss Lucy’s for the famous fish fry, so we’ll just have to go back! We shopped at the local Dolphin Market for the few nights we ate dinner at home, which was hit or miss with the availability of chicken and steak depending on the time of day. Expect prices at the grocery stores throughout the islands to be higher than what you normally pay.
On the other end of the island in Cruz Bay, there were definitely more restaurants to choose from. While we made a choice to stay mostly in Coral Bay, we did enjoy a pre-fireworks dinner on the balcony at Greengos Caribbean Cantina. The Mexican Street Corn and the Mango Chili Glazed Shrimp hit the spot after a long day in town.
When to Visit
Peak season is considered December through mid April, with prices running a bit higher during those times. Hurricane season typically ranges from July to October, and clearly travelers to the Caribbean need to be mindful of the weather if traveling during hurricane season (and consider purchasing trip cancellation insurance). We visited over 4th of July week, and had typical summer weather, with highs in the mid to upper 80’s and 2 brief rain showers, but neither during the day while we were out. I now understand why St. John is such a special place, and am not surprised that every time I mention it to someone, the response is almost always “it’s my favorite place to visit.”
*This post contains affiliate links; if you purchase something familyTravelsUSA may receive a small commission. As always, opinions are my own.
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